I received yet another Dig Dug board in the mail on Friday. I plugged the board into the cabinet and Dig Dug has been resurrected. The game plays flawlessly and with all of the new components it will hopefully continue to play flawlessly for some time to come!Read More
I’ve spent a significant amount of time with Dig Dug over the last few days trying to get it working again. Monday night, at the suggestion of a fellow collector, I spent about an hour swapping out the old edge connector with a new one to insure that it was making good contact with the board.
With the right tools, this is probably a fairly easy job. They make a crimp tool specifically designed to crimp the pins of the edge connector. I do not have this crimp tool so it took me a little longer crimping each pin with a pair of needle nose pliers. I labeled the parts and solder side of the old and new edge connector to keep from getting confused then began working wire by wire from one end to the other. Here are a few shots of the work in progress and the completed edge connector:
Tuesday night, it was time to address the A/R II board with a repair kit obtained from...Read More
Yesterday, I received a Dig Dug board in the mail. The board was supposed to be tested and working. I fixed the burnt resistor on the A/R II board and plugged the new board into the cabinet. The good news…nothing smoked. The bad news…poor Dig Dug still doesn’t work. Instead, I’m greeted by a 3 looping screens of corrupt graphics, in either test mode or game mode:
It appears to be some type of power issue causing the game to go into an infinite reset cycle. I’ve ordered a repair kit for the A/R II board which consists of new capacitors and a few new resistors. I’ve also ordered a new edge connector to ensure I’m getting good contact to the board. Any other thoughts or ideas on the problem would be appreciated...Read More
Unfortunately, one of the problems with owning classic arcade games is the fact that they will eventually quit working and need repair. Such is the case with poor Dig Dug. For the last few weeks, the game has been playing fine and then suddenly going to a scrambled screen of graphics. It became progressively worse and finally was just the scrambled screen when powered on. Needless to say, I wasn’t able to get any pictures of the scrambled screen.
My first step was to start checking the voltages going to the game circuit board. Everything checked out fine except the 5v test point was a little high at 5.4 volts. I dialed that back down to an acceptable 5.1v range using a pot on the A/R II board (Audio Regulator PCB). I started talking to fellow collectors about my problem and one requested a picture of the scrambled screen to try and help diagnose the problem.
As luck would have it, I fired up the game to take the requested pictures and immediately smelled smoke...Read More
Inquiring minds often wonder how much work goes into a complete restoration of an arcade cabinet. I maintain a “log” on each machine I restore and keep track of the total spent on new parts and how many hours have gone into the restoration. Since the Dig Dug restoration is essentially complete, with the exception being a new back door, I’ll use it as an example:
|Date Ordered||Part Ordered||Cost|
|1/18/08||New coin & back door locks||$8.00|
|1/21/08||Self test switch||$3.00|
|1/27/08||2 cans of spray paint||$6.96|
|1/28/08||Side art @ $1.80 per foot||$21.60|
|2/4/08||Liquid laminate for side art (1 quart)||$17.95|
|2/4/08||Primer (1 gallon)||$17.00|
|2/10/08||Flat black paint (1 gallon)||$17.40|
|2/24/08||Rustoleum "Hammered" spray paint||$5.28|
|2/24/08||40 feet of black t-molding||$29.90|
|3/2/08||Poster board for monitor cover||$1.08|
|4/11/08||New AC line cord with ground||$5.00|
|????????||Plywood for new back door||??????|